CVT vs. Automatic Transmission: A Repair Shop’s Perspective

From the moment a customer describes a shifting issue, the type of automatic transmission in their vehicle—be it a conventional gear-driven automatic or a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT)—sets the stage for a very different repair process in our shop. It’s worth noting that CVTs are automatics too; they just achieve their “automatic” operation in a different way. Instead of shifting through fixed gear ratios like a traditional automatic, a CVT adjusts seamlessly through pulleys and a belt or chain.

Under the Hood: A Tale of Two Transmissions

A traditional automatic transmission is a marvel of hydraulic and mechanical engineering, utilizing a complex system of planetary gearsets, clutches, and bands to deliver a set number of gear ratios. Think of it as a sophisticated bicycle gear system that shifts on its own. Our technicians are well-versed in the intricate dance of these components, and years of experience have made diagnosing and repairing them a familiar, albeit sometimes complex, process.

In contrast, a CVT eliminates fixed gears. It employs a system of two variable-diameter pulleys connected by a steel belt or chain. By continuously adjusting the diameter of these pulleys, a CVT creates an almost infinite number of gear ratios, keeping the engine in its most efficient RPM range. While brilliant for fuel economy, this design presents a unique set of challenges from a repair standpoint.

When Your Transmission Acts Up

Hard shifts, a loss of power, or weird noises from under the car are classic signs of transmission trouble. But what’s actually causing the problem depends entirely on what kind of transmission you have. Is it a traditional automatic or a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT)? 

When a vehicle with a traditional automatic transmission comes in with a complaint of harsh shifting or slipping, our diagnostic process typically involves checking the fluid level and condition, scanning for trouble codes, and performing pressure tests. Common culprits often include worn clutches, faulty solenoids, or issues with the valve body.

CVTs, on the other hand, have their own signature set of problems. We frequently see issues related to overheating, which can degrade the specialized CVT fluid and damage internal components. A shudder or hesitation during acceleration often points to a worn belt or pulleys. Diagnosing a CVT requires a deep understanding of its electronic controls and the ability to interpret specific diagnostic codes that are unique to this type of transmission. Generic code readers often miss CVT-specific faults, so we rely on factory-level scan tools to obtain the complete picture.

Maintenance is key for both transmission types, but the margin for error with a CVT is significantly smaller. Traditional automatics can sometimes tolerate delayed fluid service, but CVTs are far less forgiving of the condition and type of their fluid. Using anything other than the manufacturer-specified fluid can quickly lead to catastrophic failure. We always stress to our customers the importance of adhering to the recommended service intervals for their CVT.

When it comes to major repairs, the paths for these two transmissions diverge significantly. With a traditional automatic, a “rebuild” is a common and viable option. This involves disassembling the transmission, inspecting each component, replacing worn or damaged parts with new ones, and then reassembling it. This process can be labor-intensive, but it often gives a transmission a new lease on life.

Rebuilding a CVT, however, is a much rarer practice. The internal components, such as the belt and pulleys, are often not available as individual replacement parts in the aftermarket. Even if they were, the specialized tools and training required for a successful rebuild are not widespread. More often than not, a major CVT failure necessitates a complete replacement of the unit with a new or remanufactured one from the dealer. This reality has a significant impact on the final repair bill.

Problems You’ll Only Find (or Find More Often) in a CVT

Electrical and Sensor Faults

Your car’s computer controls the transmission, relying on a network of sensors to get the job done. When an input/output speed sensor or a temperature sensor fails, it can feel like a major mechanical breakdown, whether you have a CVT or a regular automatic.

Fluid Problems

Transmission fluid is the lifeblood of the system. If it gets low, contaminated, or burnt, it leads to slipping, overheating, and serious damage. Using the wrong type of fluid is just as bad, and CVTs are especially sensitive to this.

Solenoid & Valve Body Failures

Solenoids are small electronic parts that direct the flow of fluid inside the transmission. If one gets stuck or burns out, you might get harsh shifts or find the car won’t move at all. This can happen in any kind of automatic transmission.

Overheating

Nothing kills a transmission faster than heat. High temperatures can destroy the fluid and cook the internal parts, regardless of the type of transmission you drive.

Issues Unique (or Especially Severe) in CVTs

Belt or Chain Wear

Traditional automatics use planetary gears. CVTs rely on a steel belt or chain clamped between pulleys. Over time, this belt can slip or wear—causing the classic “rubber band effect,” where RPMs climb but speed doesn’t.

Pulley Wear and Bearing Failure

Because CVTs depend on moving pulleys under extreme pressure, worn pulley faces or failed bearings are common causes of whining, slipping, or total failure.

Fluid Sensitivity

While all transmissions need the right fluid, CVTs demand it. Using anything other than the OEM-specified CVT fluid can quickly lead to shudder, overheating, or belt damage. Even within a single brand, fluid specs can vary by model.

Calibration & Adaptation Requirements

Most CVTs don’t even have a dipstick. Checking fluid level often requires factory-level scan tools, performed at a precise temperature, with a calibration reset. This makes CVT service more dependent on specialized diagnostics than conventional automatics.

Why This Distinction Matters

Both conventional and CVT units fall under the category of “automatic transmissions,” but they operate on fundamentally different principles. This is why accurate diagnostics matter—because while they share the same end goal (shifting automatically without a clutch pedal), the repair strategies and tools required for each are unique.

If a general mechanic misdiagnoses a CVT issue as a traditional problem, they may replace the wrong part or even recommend replacing the entire unit unnecessarily. At Gold Coast Transmissions, we:

  • Separate electrical vs. mechanical causes
  • Use factory-level scan tools for calibration and diagnostics
  • Rebuild CVTs in-house with OEM-grade components and fluids

This expertise allows us to repair CVTs properly—something most general shops aren’t prepared to do.

Our role as a transmission repair shop is to demystify these complex systems for our customers. We take the time to explain the fundamental differences between a traditional automatic and a CVT, the specific issues their vehicle is facing, and the repair options available. For our part, we continue to invest in the training and tools necessary to service and repair both of these evolving technologies, ensuring we can keep our customers safely on the road, no matter what kind of transmission is under their vehicle.

All transmissions share common failure points, but CVTs demand more precision, specialized tools, and training. That’s why we continue to invest in the expertise needed to keep our customers on the road—no matter what transmission they drive.

CVT Transmission Guide

How CVTs Work (and Why They’re Different)

Unlike a conventional automatic transmission with its complex set of gears, a Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) operates on a much simpler and elegant principle. Imagine two cone-shaped pulleys connected by a heavy-duty steel belt or chain. As one pulley expands, the other contracts, constantly changing the gear ratio. This clever design enables the engine to operate within its most efficient power range, resulting in a remarkably smooth, shift-free ride with improved gas mileage.

Automakers like Nissan, Subaru, and Honda recognized these benefits and incorporated CVTs into their popular models, such as the Altima and Civic, to provide drivers with a better fuel economy experience. But the very things that make a CVT special—the belt-and-pulley system and its unique hydraulic controls—also make it complex to service. These transmissions have strict fluid requirements, require precise calibration, and utilize internal parts that differ significantly from those in a standard automatic transmission. Understanding this is the first step to seeing why not every auto shop is ready to work on one.

Figure: Image of a Toyota CVT showing key internal components, including variable-diameter pulleys and a metal belt (right side). Instead of fixed gears, a CVT continuously adjusts these pulley ratios for seamless acceleration.

Why Most General Shops Avoid CVT Transmission Repair

They Can’t Get the Parts

One of the biggest hurdles for a general mechanic is simply getting the right parts. Many internal CVT components, like the steel belt or specific pulley pieces, aren’t sitting on shelves at the local auto parts store. Even getting them from the dealer can be a challenge. As one Honda technician pointed out, you “can’t purchase a [CVT] belt… even from Honda.” Manufacturers often prefer to sell the entire transmission as a single unit. This leaves a shop with no special connections high and dry. Without the necessary pieces, they can’t perform an internal repair, so they’ll often just recommend installing a whole new or remanufactured transmission.

Lack of Training and Expertise

In the long history of transmissions, CVT technology is the new kid on the block. Many mechanics who are experts in traditional automatics simply haven’t been trained on the unique quirks of a CVT. As a Subaru service resource highlights, this lack of training and tools often forces shops to default to a full replacement. It’s not that CVTs are “unfixable”—it’s that the average technician isn’t familiar with them. A mechanic who can rebuild a traditional transmission in their sleep might hesitate when faced with diagnosing a slipping CVT belt or a failing pulley sensor. The myth that “you can’t repair a CVT” persists mainly because of this knowledge gap, not because it’s true. A skilled technician who has invested the time to learn the system can absolutely repair one.

They Want to Avoid Risk and Comebacks

Repairing a CVT is intricate work. If it isn’t done perfectly, the transmission could fail again shortly after leaving the shop. For a general mechanic, a “comeback” like this is a major blow to their reputation and their bottom line. While any transmission rebuild requires precision, CVTs have incredibly tight tolerances for things like belt tension and pulley alignment. A shop that isn’t 100% confident in its ability would rather not take the risk. It’s much safer for them to replace the whole unit or refer you to a transmission specialist than to attempt a repair that might come back to haunt them.

What It Really Takes to Rebuild a CVT

Properly servicing or rebuilding a CVT requires a higher level of technical skill and resources. Here’s what a truly qualified shop must have:

  • Specialized Know-How: Technicians need deep knowledge of different CVT designs. A Nissan CVT, built by Jatco, has different common failure points than Subaru’s chain-driven Lineartronic CVT or Honda’s unique clutch-start system. A capable shop invests in continuous, manufacturer-specific training to pinpoint issues that a general mechanic would miss.
  • Dedicated Diagnostic Tools: A basic code reader isn’t enough. CVTs often require manufacturer-specific scan tools to perform computer calibrations, update software, or even check the fluid level correctly. Most CVTs don’t have a dipstick; the fluid level is checked using a specific procedure at a precise temperature, which requires a factory-level diagnostic tool.
  • Access to Quality Parts & Fluids: A true CVT specialist has built relationships with suppliers to get OEM components or high-quality aftermarket kits. More importantly, they know that using the wrong fluid can destroy a CVT. Each manufacturer specifies a proprietary fluid with exact friction properties—using a generic “all-purpose” fluid is a recipe for disaster.
  • An In-House Rebuild Department: A dedicated facility for rebuilding transmissions is a must. This allows technicians to completely disassemble the unit, meticulously inspect every part for wear and damage, and control the quality of the rebuild from start to finish. It’s this in-house capability that allows a shop to stand behind its work with a solid warranty.

Gold Coast Transmissions: South Florida’s CVT Experts

At Gold Coast Transmissions, we check all those boxes and more. We aren’t a general repair shop that dabbles in transmissions; we are transmission specialists, and CVT technology is one of our core strengths.

Founded in 1991, we’ve built our reputation exclusively on driveline and transmission work. We’ve serviced countless CVTs from every major brand since they first appeared on the road. Our ASE-certified technicians undergo continuous training, and we’ve invested heavily in the dealer-level diagnostic tools needed to communicate with your car’s computer and identify the root cause of the problem.

Unlike shops that simply replace a unit, we perform comprehensive CVT rebuilds right here in our own facility. We tear down your transmission, replace worn components with top-quality parts, and reassemble it to factory specifications. We use the exact OEM-specified fluid and test every rebuilt transmission to ensure it runs flawlessly before it leaves our shop. This allows us to back our work with a strong warranty, giving you peace of mind.

In short, most auto shops steer clear of CVTs because they require a level of commitment they aren’t prepared to make. At Gold Coast Transmissions, we’ve made that commitment. If your car’s CVT is giving you trouble or another mechanic has turned you away, don’t give up. Bring it to the specialists who handle these jobs every day. We’ll show you what’s wrong and fix it right, so you can trust your vehicle again.

Transmission Service, Grocery store, AA A cART.

How Battery Voltage Can Damage Your Transmission (Even When Nothing’s “Broken”)

Most drivers expect a dead battery to cause a vehicle to not start. What they don’t expect is harsh shifts, torque-converter shudder, PRNDL flashing, limp mode, or a handful of “transmission” codes. Yet unstable power is one of the top reasons a healthy transmission behaves like it’s failing. We explain how voltage and grounds control shift quality, the failure patterns we see, and how we prove the root cause before any parts come off your car.

The Big Idea: Transmissions Are Computers with Hydraulics Attached

Modern transmissions use a Transmission Control Module (TCM) to pulse solenoids in milliseconds, set line pressure, and lock/unlock the torque converter. That precision depends on clean, stable power from three places:

  1. Battery – stable base voltage and reserve under load
  2. Alternator – steady charging without AC ripple (diode noise)
  3. Grounds – low-resistance paths between engine, body, TCM, and battery

If any of these go marginal, the TCM’s math is wrong—and so are your shifts.

What Low/Unstable Voltage Does (Mechanisms, Not Myths)

1) Solenoid Control Goes Sloppy

Solenoids are driven by PWM (pulse-width modulation). Undervoltage → less current → the valve doesn’t move as far/as fast → the TCM overcorrects → bang shifts, flares, or delayed engagement.

2) Sensors Lie (or Disappear)

  • Hall-effect sensors (many speed & range sensors) need a clean 5V/12V supply. Undervoltage → dropouts → false P0715/P0720-type misfires.
  • Reference-5V networks: A sagging regulator inside the PCM/TCM can drag multiple sensors down at once, creating “everything is bad” chaos.

3) Modules Stop Talking (Bus Off)

CAN/LIN modules will drop offline if voltage is noisy or low. That spawns U-codes (lost communication), cluster freakouts, and limp mode—even when the hydraulics are fine.

4) Torque Converter Shudder That Isn’t the Converter

Low voltage starves the TCC control driver. You feel shudder or slip, log P0741, and it looks like a bad converter—until proper charging and grounds make it vanish.

5) Adaptations Get Erased or Corrupted

A weak battery or jump-start voltage spike can reset learned pressure/adaptation tables. After that, expect harsh 1–2, odd 2–3 timing, and “range/performance” complaints until we perform a relearn.



Codes We Commonly See with Voltage/Ground Issues

P0711/P0715/P0720 – TFT/Speed sensor plausibility faults (supply or ground related)

P0562 – System Voltage Low

P0882 – TCM Power Input Low

U0101 / U0001–U0402 – Lost comms (TCM/ABS/BCM)

P0700 – Transmission control fault request (umbrella)

P0740/P0741 – TCC circuit/performance (often mimicked by low voltage)

The Hidden Villain: Grounds & AC Ripple

Grounds

A corroded or loose engine-to-chassis strap acts like a resistor. Under load, module grounds “float,” shifting sensor readings and solenoid targets. Result: ghost faults and erratic shifts.

Alternator Ripple

Failing diodes inject AC ripple onto the DC system. To modules, ripple looks like noise/jitter, which scrambles sensor edges and CAN timing. You get intermittent U-codes, random stalls, and shifting weirdness that follows electrical loads.


Start-Stop, AGM Batteries & Battery “Registration”

Many late-model vehicles use AGM batteries and an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS). After replacement, the system often requires battery registration/coding so the alternator charges correctly. Skip that, and you’ll chase chronic low-voltage behavior and premature battery wear—plus all the “transmission” symptoms above.


Aftermarket Add-Ons That Cause Trouble

  • Big audio systems without proper wiring/grounds
  • Remote starts and alarm taps on 5V reference or CAN lines
  • LED/HID kits that backfeed noise into the system

We don’t remove your accessories; we isolate them and verify they aren’t polluting the power or the network.

Our Diagnostic Playbook (How We Prove It)

  1. Baseline Power Test
    • Engine off/on voltage, loaded battery test, alternator output, and ripple check.
  2. Voltage-Drop Tests
    • Positive and ground paths under load (starter, blower, heated seats on).
  3. All-Module Scan + Freeze-Frame
    • We correlate voltage at the moment each DTC set and map which modules went offline first.
  4. Live Data Reality Check
    • Compare commanded vs. actual line pressure, ISS/OSS, TCC slip, and charging voltage in real time.
  5. Only then do we pressure-gauge, stall-test, or disassemble anything. If the power isn’t clean, then the data is not telling us the real story.

What Not to Do

  • Don’t disconnect the battery with the engine running (voltage spikes).
  • Don’t clear codes before capturing freeze-frame and module comm status.
  • Don’t throw a converter/valve body at a car with obvious power problems.

When It’s Electrical vs. When It’s Mechanical

Electrical tells: Multiple U-codes, symptoms change with electrical loads, codes set at idle, issues improve after a restart or battery charge.

Mechanical tells: Repeatable flare/slip under heat/load with stable voltage, and pressure won’t meet command even when power is perfect.


Related Reading


FAQ: Battery Voltage & Transmission Problems

Q: Can a weak battery really cause transmission issues?
Yes. A weak or unstable battery can starve the Transmission Control Module (TCM) of power, leading to harsh shifts, limp mode, or false trouble codes—even when the transmission itself is mechanically sound.


Q: What’s the difference between electrical and mechanical transmission problems?

  • Electrical problems usually show up as multiple U-codes, shifting issues that change with electrical load, or limp mode that clears after a restart or charge.
  • Mechanical problems are repeatable under heat/load and won’t improve when power is stable.

Q: I replaced my battery, but still get transmission codes—why?
Many late-model vehicles require battery registration after replacement. If skipped, the charging system may undercharge or overcharge, leading to chronic low-voltage symptoms that mimic transmission failure.


Q: Which engine/transmission codes point to voltage or ground issues?
Common ones include:

  • P0562 (System Voltage Low)
  • P0882 (TCM Power Input Low)
  • U0101/U0001–U0402 (Lost Communication)
  • P0740/P0741 (Torque Converter Circuit/Performance)
  • P0715/P0720 (Speed Sensor faults)

Always check freeze-frame voltage before assuming a hard transmission failure.


Q: Can alternator problems cause shifting issues?
Absolutely. A failing alternator diode creates AC ripple on the system, which confuses sensors and modules. This can trigger random stalls, U-codes, and shift quality changes tied to electrical loads.


Q: Do aftermarket accessories affect transmission behavior?
Yes. Poorly wired audio systems, remote starters, alarms, or lighting kits can backfeed noise into 5V reference or CAN lines, leading to false transmission codes and erratic performance.


Q: How do you confirm it’s electrical before opening the transmission?
We follow a diagnostic playbook:

  • Test battery/charging health under load
  • Check voltage drop on positive and ground paths
  • Scan all modules with freeze-frame data
  • Compare live line pressure, speed sensors, and charging voltage

If power isn’t clean, the data can’t be trusted. Only after proving stable voltage do we move to mechanical testing.

Limp Mode Blog Article

Limp Mode: What It Is, Why It Happens | Gold Coast Transmissions

You’re cruising, then all of a sudden, your car won’t shift. It’s stuck in one gear, and the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. That’s limp mode. It sounds catastrophic, but it’s your vehicle’s way of protecting the powertrain until a proper diagnosis can be done.

Here’s how limp mode works, what commonly triggers it, and how we separate a real fix from an expensive misdiagnosis.

What Limp Mode Is (and Isn’t)

It is: A built-in failsafe strategy for your vehicle. The control modules (PCM/TCM) detect a fault and lock the car into a limited operating state—typically 2nd or 3rd gear, reduced power, no overdrive/TCC lockup—so you can get to safety or a shop.

It isn’t: An automatic death sentence for your transmission. Many limp mode cases trace back to electrical, sensor, or communication problems—not a destroyed transmission. 

Quick Triage: What To Do

Ease off. Don’t force highway speeds when driving in limp mode—keep it gentle and steady.

Restart once, safely. Some platforms clear limp on key cycle; if it returns, stop guessing.

Note the symptoms. Stuck gear? Flashing PRNDL? Erratic speed? Take a photo of the dashboard and signs.

Call us. We’ll book a full diagnostic and explain findings in plain English.

Why Limp Mode Happens: The Real Triggers

Power & Ground Problems (The Hidden Culprit)

  • A weak battery, a failing alternator, corroded grounds, or loose straps can starve the TCM of clean power.
  • Symptoms: PRNDL flashing, random “U-codes,” harsh engagements, and modules dropping offline.
  • Want the bigger picture? See how electrical issues affect your transmission.

CAN Bus & Communication Loss

  • Modern cars are networks. If the transmission, engine, ABS, or body module stop talking, the car safeguards itself.
  • Clues: Multiple warning lights, scan tool shows “Lost Comm” with TCM/ABS/BCM.
  • We verify by comparing wheel speed (ABS), output speed, and vehicle speed live.

Sensor & Range/Mode Switch Faults

  • Input/Output Speed Sensors (ISS/OSS) feed shift timing; dirty tips, broken reluctors, or damaged wires can spoof failure.
  • Range/Mode (PRNDL/IMS) reporting the “wrong” gear will force failsafe.
  • Paired issues with MAF/TPS/ECT can trick the transmission into bad timing decisions.

Pressure Control vs. Hydraulic Reality

  • Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) or valve-body problems can be electrical (coil/driver) or hydraulic (stuck valves, varnish, debris).

TCC Slip vs. TCC Circuit

  • Circuit faults (open/short) trigger quickly; performance/slip shows up under cruise or heat.
  • Low voltage can mimic TCC slip; a converter isn’t guilty just because a code says “TCC.”

Temperature & Thermal Derate

Misdiagnosis: Why Parts Swapping Fails

Codes point to where a problem was detected—not always why. Replacing a sensor, solenoid, valve body, or even the whole transmission without power/ground checks, network testing, and pressure verification is how people spend thousands and still limp home.

How We Diagnose Limp Mode (Our Playbook)

Power & Charging Check
Clean 12.6V off / 13.8–14.4V running. If the voltage is wrong, everything after is noise.

Scan All Modules + Freeze-Frame
We don’t stop at the engine/trans. ABS, body, and gateway modules tell the network story.

Harness & Connector Inspection
We’re looking for ATF wicking through connector sleeves, water intrusion, chafed looms, and green crust on pins.

Live Data + Commanded Tests
Compare commanded vs. actual line pressure, ISS/OSS plausibility, TCC slip trends, and gear ratio math.

Hydraulic Verification
If electronics pass, we test hydraulics (manual pressure gauge, stall test, adaptation status).

Software Updates & Relearns
After repair, we perform TCM/PCM updates and adaptive relearns—skipping this causes fresh harsh shifts and “new” codes.

Electrical Components That Affect Your Transmission

Understanding Electrical Components That Affect Your Transmission

Welcome to The Morning Shift—our new series of straightforward guides, behind-the-scenes insights, and expert explanations powered by the team at Gold Coast Transmissions. We’re starting with something you don’t usually think about when it comes to your car—until the check engine light shows up or it starts acting weird. It’s one of those behind-the-scenes problems that can throw everything off: How your vehicle’s electrical components can impact both your engine and transmission. 

Modern vehicles are smarter than ever, but that also means diagnosing performance issues requires more than just popping the hood. Faulty sensors, damaged wiring, or failed modules can all lead to engine misfires, rough shifting, or even complete transmission failure.

How Electrical Systems Connect to the Engine & Transmission

Your vehicle is a rolling computer. Here’s how it all ties together:

Engine Control Module (ECM) & Transmission Control Module (TCM)

These are the “brains” of your powertrain:

  • ECM: Controls engine timing, fuel injection, and emissions systems.
  • TCM: Oversees gear shifts, torque converter lockup, and adaptive shift patterns.

They constantly communicate with each other. If the ECM sees a problem—say, incorrect air/fuel ratio—it may tell the TCM to delay shifts or trigger limp mode to protect the transmission.

Sensors That Impact Both

Many sensors send data to both control modules. A failure in one can cause a chain reaction.

  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS): Tells the car how hard you’re pressing the gas. A faulty one can cause harsh shifts or delayed acceleration.
  • Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF): Bad readings here can throw off fuel delivery and trigger poor shifting.
  • Coolant Temperature Sensor: If the computer thinks your engine is too cold or too hot, it may adjust shift timing or even lock out higher gears.

Wiring Harness & Grounds

Even if all the components are working, bad wiring or poor ground connections can mimic bigger problems:

  • You might see intermittent shifting.
  • Or experience false engine codes that confuse diagnosis.
  • This is why we always check your power supply, grounds, and communication networks during diagnostics.

Solenoids: The Hidden Movers Inside Your Transmission

One of the most important electrical components in your transmission system is the solenoid—or more accurately, a set of solenoids. These are electromagnetic valves that control the flow of transmission fluid through the valve body.

Each solenoid acts like a gatekeeper:

  • It opens or closes based on electrical signals from the Transmission Control Module (TCM)
  • This, in turn, controls which gear is engaged, how long it stays engaged, and when the shift happens

Common types include:

  • Shift solenoids – direct fluid to activate gear changes
  • Torque converter clutch (TCC) solenoid – locks the torque converter to improve fuel efficiency at cruising speeds
  • Pressure control solenoids – regulate hydraulic pressure throughout the system

What Happens When a Solenoid Fails?

If a solenoid sticks, shorts out, or loses signal, you might notice:

  • Harsh or delayed shifting
  • Being stuck in one gear (limp mode)
  • Transmission overheating
  • Check engine or transmission warning lights

Because they’re electrical and hydraulic at the same time, solenoids are often misdiagnosed—especially if the problem is intermittent. At Gold Coast Transmissions, we test solenoid operation as part of our full electronic diagnostic process, using both scan tools and hydraulic pressure readings.

Common Symptoms of Electrical Issues Affecting Transmissions

  • Sudden jerking or hard shifts
  • Transmission stuck in 1st or 3rd gear
  • No upshifts or delayed gear changes
  • Check the engine light and transmission codes together
  • Rough idle paired with shift hesitation

How We Diagnose the Issue

At Gold Coast Transmissions, we use:

  • Advanced scan tools
  • Oscilloscopes for wiring trace
  • Live data logging to track signal drops

It’s not just about pulling a code—it’s about interpreting what the system is trying to tell us.

Further questions about your transmission? Give us a call at either shop:

Fort Lauderdale: (954) 983-3005
Davie: (954) 472-2662

example of radiator water and coolant in transmission

How Water or Coolant Contaminates Your Transmission

What Happens When Coolant or Water Enters Your Transmission

At Gold Coast Transmissions, one of the most common—and serious—issues we encounter is transmission failure caused by coolant or water contamination. If your fluid looks like a strawberry milkshake, it’s not a coincidence. That mixture of coolant and ATF is a sign that your transmission’s hydraulic system has been compromised. Here’s what causes it and how it damages your transmission.

How Does It Happen?

Radiator Failure

Many automatic vehicles rely on radiators with built-in transmission coolers. When those internal walls crack or corrode, engine coolant leaks into the transmission fluid, blending into a foamy pink mess that can no longer protect your transmission.

Water Intrusion

If your vehicle is driven through deep water or flood conditions, water can enter through the transmission vent or exposed seals. Once inside, the damage begins quickly—especially in South Florida’s humid climate.

What Coolant or Water Does to a Transmission

Once foreign fluid gets into the system, it starts breaking things down from the inside:

  • Lip Seals Swell
    Water and coolant make rubber seals expand unevenly, which causes hydraulic leaks and pressure loss.
  • Clutch Material Breaks Down
    Contaminated fluid causes friction material to flake off the clutches, leading to slippage, RPM flares, and inconsistent shifting.
  • Electronics Short Out
    Moisture can damage solenoids, sensors, and valve body circuits, leading to unpredictable performance or total failure.
  • Internal Corrosion Begins
    Metal components inside the transmission begin to rust, affecting long-term reliability and response.

What We Do About It

At this stage, the transmission isn’t just struggling—it’s compromised. And no amount of fluid replacement or stopgap repairs will reverse the damage.

At Gold Coast Transmissions, we don’t patch things up—we rebuild. If your transmission has been contaminated by water or coolant, we’ll:

  • Tear down the entire unit and inspect for internal damage
  • Replace clutch packs, seals, bearings, and electronics as needed
  • Flush or replace the radiator or cooler if it’s the source of the contamination
  • Test and reseal the system to restore factory-grade hydraulic function

This is a serious job, and we treat it with the care it deserves—because your transmission isn’t something you can afford to gamble with.

Get Your Transmission Back in Working Order

If your vehicle has driven through water, is showing signs of overheating, or your fluid looks cloudy, it’s time to take action. Whether the damage came from a failed radiator or a flood zone, our job is to get your transmission working again—reliably and professionally.

To learn more about water intrusion and flooding from storms affecting your transmission: Click Here.

Further questions about your transmission? Give us a call at either shop:

Fort Lauderdale: (954) 983-3005
Davie: (954) 472-2662